Mashed potatoes, though rich and flavorful with butter, have often struck me as somewhat uninspiring. They typically serve as mere space-fillers on my Thanksgiving plate, an accessory primarily for gravy rather than a standout dish.
Mashed potatoes The solution, it turns out, might lie in brown butter.
In pursuit of my culinary ideal, I embarked on a series of experiments, incorporating reader suggestions and following a foundational recipe from Julia Moskin (available at nytcooking.com). I explored different potato varieties, cooking and mashing techniques, and flavor profiles.
A key revelation emerged: Every cook believes their version reigns supreme (all were delightful!). The mashing method is a matter of personal preference (one reader humorously suggested recruiting a teenager “with a strong arm and a good heart who loves hanging out in the kitchen”). Ultimately, though, it became evident that almost anything can be made delicious with ample amounts of butter and salt.
My preferred iteration harks back to a Thanksgiving memory from two years ago. Faced with a midpandemic lull and a desire to revive my culinary curiosity, I decided to enhance the potatoes with a touch of brown butter. It turned out to be a game-changer.
This dish infuses earthy russet potatoes with the warm, nutty nuances of brown butter, along with the enticing fragrances of garlic, rosemary, and thyme. The result is a distinctive flavor that imparts a sense of luxury without requiring significant additional effort or ingredients.
Browning butter might seem daunting, but the process is surprisingly straightforward. The transformation unfolds gradually and suddenly. As the butter heats in a saucepan, the water content evaporates, leading to a vigorous boil. After about 5 minutes, a hush descends, and the liquid thickens, giving way to foam. The milk solids beneath caramelize, turning a rich chestnut brown. Vigilance is crucial, as butter can shift from brown to burnt in an instant. Once brown flecks surface, remove it from the heat, stirring well and scraping the fond—the flavorful bits stuck to the pan.
The outcome is a splendid amber hue, a fusion of toasted milk solids and clarified butter, exuding a nutty aroma reminiscent of a French bakery. Personally, I prefer making a substantial batch of brown butter the day before Thanksgiving, allowing me to incorporate it into desserts, gravy, and, of course, the mashed potatoes.
Brown-Butter Mashed Potatoes
Total time: 1 hour
Servings: 8 to 10
Ingredients:
1 cup/2 sticks unsalted butter
2 cups whole milk
1 head of garlic, halved
4 thyme sprigs or 3 rosemary sprigs
Kosher salt and black pepper
4 pounds russet potatoes (about 8 medium potatoes)
Steps:
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat until it bubbles vigorously. Cook for an additional 6 to 8 minutes, swirling occasionally, until the bubbles subside, foam forms, and toasty brown flecks appear on the surface. Remove from heat, scrape the bottom of the pan, and pour the browned butter into a heatproof measuring cup to cool slightly. (Do not clean the saucepan.)
Add the milk to the saucepan and heat over low. Stir in all but a scant ¼ cup of the brown butter. Add the garlic and herbs, steeping over low for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Peel and quarter the potatoes. Boil for 15 to 20 minutes until a fork easily pierces them. Drain and return to the dry pot over low heat to shake off excess moisture.
Strain the warm milk mixture over the potatoes (remove and discard the garlic and herbs if desired) and mash to your desired consistency using a potato masher or hand mixer on low speed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (If making ahead, turn off the heat and cover with a lid to keep warm for up to 30 minutes.)
Transfer to a large serving bowl. Create divots on the surface with the back of a spoon and pour the reserved brown butter on top.
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